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Guard and Bark Training
for
Police Service Dogs
By Rodney Spicer
There are many ways to
train the Guard and Bark and many associations with the Guard
and Bark. In Schutzhund the dog guards in a blind. In KNPV the
dog guards after finding a Decoy hiding in the woods. In most
sports there is a pattern, or sequence of events that is
associated with the guard and bark that never changes. The
only association or pattern that a Police Service Dog may have
is the command. The guard and bark is an obedience exercise
and this exercise takes place under cars, In the bushes and
wherever a suspect is trying to hide. The job of the PSD is to
locate and alert the handler by barking.
This is how I train the
guard and bark with a PSD. The handler will bring the PSD out
with a long line (30’ leash) attached to a prong collar. The
reason I have the psd wearing a prong collar is so that it
will be uncomfortable for the PSD to lean on it and pull to
the decoy. I will also have an electric collar on the psd but
will not be using it at this point.
I will have the decoy make
an attraction while moving around. The handler will be at a
point that has been measured so that the long line will
prevent the PSD from bothering the decoy. I prefer the psd to
be no closer than 6 feet and it is ok for the psd to be
behind, on the side or in front of the decoy. This is what the
PSD will encounter with a guard an bark while in a real
working situation. The handler will be holding on to the
collar of the psd and encourage him to alert on the decoy by
barking.
At this point the handler
will release the psd simultaneous with the command to guard
and bark. This will also associate the
 command with the
exercise. Now that the handler has sent the PSD on a guard and
bark, the handler should let the PSD go to the end of the long
line. If the psd goes beyond the pre-determined length of the
long line, he will self correct himself with the prong collar.
The handler will then give
again the command to guard an bark simultaneous with a
correction with the long line. Since the prong collar is
uncomfortable to lean into the psd will be more likely to stay
back and bark, and less likely to pull towards the decoy. If
the PSD does not bark at first the handler should give another
long line correction simultaneous with the guard and bark
command.
The PSD will be less
likely to bark if the long line is tight, this will only
reinforce pulling. The long line should always have slack and
every time the psd puts tension in the long line the handler
should give the psd a long line correction simultaneous with
the guard and bark command. Once the PSD has barked, the
handler should then give the apprehension command. The reason
I give the apprehend command after a bark is to reinforce the
barking and so that the psd understands that if he does
something he will get something. I want the psd to be focused
on the decoy and knowing that he will get to apprehend,
another reason I give the apprehend command at this point in
training is because I do not want the psd looking back at the
handler or leaving the decoy. As stated before, the psd should
be focused on the decoy. Later in the training, as the psd
advances, I will then stop giving the apprehension command.
I will repeat this exercise
until it is clear to the PSD that the command to guard and
bark has a specific meaning and action. The picture to the
handler should be that the psd has slack in the long line, The
long line can be on the ground, and that the psd is barking
and focused on the decoy without further commands from the
handler.
Now that the handler has a
clear picture of what he is looking for, and the psd is
consistent with the command and understand the actions of the
command is when I introduce the electric collar.
The electric collar is an
excellent dog training TOOL. In the past electric collars were
used more often than not for discipline and stopping unwanted
behaviors at a high intensity level instead of reinforcing
what the handler has taught the psd. I believe that you cannot
teach with an electric collar, but you can reinforce what you
have taught. This is what makes the electric collar an
excellent TOOL.
Before we introduce the
electric collar in the guard and bark, I first want to find
the psd’s sensitivity level. I do not want the stimulation so
high that the psd cannot think and I do not want it so low
that the psd is unaware of the stimulation, thus my command
have no meaning. I begin by having the handler do some
obedience and when the psd is out of position, the handler
will give a leash correction, I will simultaneous give
stimulation from the electric collar on a low setting. I will
continue to raise the intensity until I see a response from
the PSD. Also the PSD will associate this is coming from the
handler because the PSD has been conditioned to wearing the
electric collar for the long line training with no
stimulation’s. And will associate the electric collar as
though it were a prong collar correction coming from the
handler. The stimulation from the electric collar will be
simultaneous with the command and leash correction from the
handler. I do not introduce the electric collar in the
beginning of the protection training because I do not want the
PSD to have a negative association while on the apprehension.
The psd may anticipate being called back from an apprehension
and release the grip on his own.
Now that I have found the
proper stimulation level for that particular PSD, I now
introduce the electric collar in the guard and bark.
The handler will give the
guard and bark command simultaneous with releasing the psd. At
this point, the psd understands the guard and bark so now I
will have the decoy add a little more noise and movement
trying to encourage the psd to bother him. As the psd
approaches the decoy, the handler will reinforce the guard and
bark command simultaneous with a long line correction and I
will also give an electric collar stimulation at the same
time, The electric collar is a negative reinforcement. When I
give the PSD stimulation, I will not have the transmitter on
the continuous mode. I will use the momentary setting and I
will tap the transmitter button until the psd is doing the
guard and bark properly. The handler will also give a long
line correction each time the psd takes the slack out of the
long line. This also gives the handler a better understanding
of when to apply an electric collar stimulation when the
training advances.
I will repeat this several
more times by using the long line and the electric collar in
different scenarios and environments. Remember the long line
should always have slack and the handler should give a slight
reinforcement correction every time the psd forges closer to
the decoy. I like to watch the psd’s rear feet and when they
move forward, I give a long line correction and bring the PSD
back to where he was. I like the PSD no closer than six feet
from the decoy. The handler should always have a picture in
their mind of what is an acceptable distance between the PSD
and the decoy.
Now that the PSD is used to
the electric collar and understands how to comply with a
stimulation, I then have the handler send the psd with out a
long line, on a guard and bark. The handler will now reinforce
the guard and bark with the electric collar just as though he
would if he had a long line on. The PSD does not get a
stimulation every time he is sent to guard and bark, but only
when he is out of the handler’s perfect picture of a guard and
bark. An important point to remember is that if a stimulation
is necessary, the stimulation must be preventative, not after
the fact. The psd may do 30 perfect guard and barks with no
electric collar stimulation’s, but on the 31st I
will give a stimulation to reinforce the guard and bark and
reassure the correct position.
 All of the guard and barks
that we have been doing to this point have been so that the
handler is in a position to see the PSD. All of these
exercises have also been in a controlled setting, and the psd
has been given the command to apprehend after several barks
thus keeping his focus on the decoy. Before going into
building and area searches I now change the method of when the
psd may be given the apprehend command. I now have the handler
either down the psd or call him back to the heel position
while he is in the guard and bark. The handler can down the
psd and then call to the heel position, then give the
apprehend command. I will have the handler stop giving the
apprehend command after the psd is doing a confident and
secure guard an bark.
I will also get away from
any apprehensions while the psd is in the guard an bark.
There are no “Reward”
apprehensions for doing a guard an bark I feel this only
creates anticipation. The way I create a scenario for the psd
to apprehend after a guard an bark is to have the handler
recall the PSD to their heel position and direct the decoy to
drop the weapon or show his/her hands. The decoy will not
follow the handlers direction for training purposes, and then
the psd is sent to apprehend. My purpose for this is so that
the psd never anticipates an apprehension on his own. I always
want the PSD waiting for the next command.
Now that the handler and
the PSD have a clear picture of the guard and bark, we now
start building and area searches out of view from the handler.
But first I want to briefly talk about the role of the decoy
in the guard and bark exercise. The decoy plays a tremendous
role in all apprehension work. It is important that the decoy
reads and works with the PSD, not against him. I do not like
decoy corrections with a stick or whip. I feel that they
should be used as an attraction and teaching the PSD to
counter the threat while on the apprehension. I do not want
the psd to submit or not counter the aggression of the decoy.
I feel that decoy corrections only create hesitation with soft
or sensitive psd’s or the “I’m going to get you before you
get me” attitude with very tough psd’s that like to fight and
anticipate one. Also PSD ‘s don’t have the luxury of working
skilled decoys all the time. This is also why it is important
that the handler be the one training the obedience during
protection and not the decoy.
Now we go on to searches
out of sight of the handler. I then give the electric collar
transmitter to the decoy and since we have been working
together through out the class, the decoy understands what our
goal is. I want the psd come no closer than six feet from the
decoy. If the PSD comes in to close, I have the decoy give a
stimulation to reinforce the guard and bark. I do not want the
decoy giving commands to the psd. I prefer the PSD learn the
association of locating the decoy and barking.
Some of the more difficult
guard an bark exercises is in the dark, heavy brush or hard to
go into areas. I feel this is more difficult because the PSD
is often trying to get a visual confirmation. In the dark, the
psd is trying to pin point the source and often time’s bumps
into the decoy. In a cluster of obstacles, the psd is trying
to get in closer to the decoy by going into the obstacles. I
feel the psd should alert on the scent or odor, not the visual
or physical contact. The way I train this is the same as when
I go to the electric collar. The handler and decoy have a
specific spot that is acceptable for the PSD to be when he
locates the decoy. If the handler can see the psd, then he
should have the transmitter. If the search is away and out of
sight of the handler, then the decoy should have the
transmitter so that if the psd is out of position, or to close
to the decoy, he can get a stimulation thus reinforcing the
proper distance between the decoy and psd. By Training this
way, the PSD’s are much more slower and methodical while on a
search, and when they pick up the scent are much quicker to
alert the handler by barking at a safe distance. The handler
should also be looking for a change in the psd’s behavior
while on a search.
A note in regards to
training with the electric collar. The electric collar is used
for reinforcement of what the handler has taught. In your
training, you should always go back to the basic foundation
training and physical reinforcement, so that the psd
understands everything comes from you, the handler. This also
helps to give your commands a specific meaning and action.
TRAINING TIPS
-
Not
all dogs are Police Service Dogs, Nerve problems never go
away you may cover them up but under stress they always
appear. Courage is the one thing you can never train, It’s
there or it’s not.
-
Never
give a command that you cannot reinforce.
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Corrections should be simultaneous with a command.
-
Be
clear in what you are training for, Have a mental picture of
what you want and if the psd is out of that picture you must
be prepared to take action immediately.
-
Discuss a plan with the decoy, What are we going to do if?
Have a plan.
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Have
an acceptable distance between the decoy and the psd.
Whether the PSD is in front, behind or on the side of the
decoy.
-
Know
your commands, be consistent and clear.
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The
handler trains the obedience, not the decoy.
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Repetition equals consistency.
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I have
had much success with this training and I hope there are
some points that may help you as well.
Good
luck
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